Scientists at North Carolina State University (NC State) have developed a pioneering technique for fabric finishing. Formaldehyde, PFAS—this new and original approach would significantly lessen our dependency on all sorts of harmful chemicals. This cutting-edge alternative employs epoxidized cottonseed oil, a natural product that starts and stops its journey with the humble cotton plant. Most importantly, it can entirely water-proof cotton fabric. Kanipe is a graduate student of Xu, who together presented these findings at the ACS (American Chemical Society) Fall 2025 meeting. The multimedia event ran from August 17-21.
The growing of cotton in the U.S. In 2021, the U.S. produced about 7.5 million bales of cotton, more than half which is used to manufacture textiles. The need for sustainable, non-toxic fabric treatments has never been greater. Consumers and manufacturers alike are seeking out environmentally friendly options.
Research Background and Objectives
Richard Venditti, an NC State professor of forest biomaterials, paper science and engineering, is the principal investigator on this cutting-edge study.… His team is working to develop targets that replace traditional chemical treatments. Yet these treatments are often harmful to both human health and the environment. More importantly, they target the replacement of fluorine-containing, water-repellent coatings that produce hydrophobic surfaces, rendering cotton fabrics water-resistant.
Untreated cotton cloth takes in water droplets, causing problems like spotting and faster degeneration. Venditti and his research team hit upon an exhilarating discovery. They were able to show that cotton treated with epoxidized cottonseed oil (ECSO) was able to effectively repel water. Their tests concluded that ECSO-treated fabric has an exceptional contact angle of 125 degrees. This realization points to a noteworthy enhancement in its hydrophobic property over the untreated control samples.
Through testing, the research team’s course has uncovered many more uses for epoxidized vegetable oils than fabric treatment. For the entire textile supply chain, it represents an exciting start towards sustainable and circular practices becoming the norm. The researchers are genetically modifying seed oil from the cotton plant. The comprehensive process required to design this specialized fabric results in a product that not only artificially enhances fabric performance, but increases the fabrics’ use of renewable resources.
“If we can achieve our goal of changing the properties of the cotton fabric—making it anti-wrinkle, anti-staining and water-resistant—using a water-based process, we’ll have a green process for putting a bio-based material onto cotton as a replacement for formaldehyde- and PFAS-based finishes.”
Properties of Epoxidized Cottonseed Oil
This breakthrough innovation has the potential to upend landscape across numerous sectors in the textile industry. It provides a more environmentally-friendly, safer alternative than chemical finishes.
The broader implications of this research go far beyond the superior fabric properties. Today, consumers make much different purchasing decisions, letting companies know that they care about the environmental impact of their purchases. Consequently, manufacturers are under increasing demand to be environmentally friendly. The introduction of a green alternative to formaldehyde and PFAS in fabric finishing is timely with this increasing consumer demand.
“Epoxidized vegetable oils have a range of applications.”
Over 90% of the cotton produced in the U.S. is manufactured into apparel. This intense dependence on cotton may have deep repercussions for broader adoption. By implementing this sustainable method, the textile industry can drastically reduce its environmental impact. This transformation gives Americans access to safer products.
Implications for the Textile Industry
Richard Venditti‘s lab is going more than skin deep in their work. Their overall aim is to improve their process and expand the uses of ECSO in textile finishing. Their work powerfully illustrates the key importance of innovation in the cause of sustainability. It further shows the power of academic research to propel operational solutions to pressing industry problems.
Moreover, with more than half of the U.S. cotton production directed towards clothing manufacturing, the implications for widespread adoption could be profound. By implementing this eco-friendly approach, the textile industry could significantly reduce its ecological footprint and provide consumers with safer products.
As Richard Venditti’s team continues their research, they aim to refine their methods and expand on the applications of ECSO in textile treatments. Their work not only highlights the importance of innovation in sustainability but also serves as an example of how academic research can lead to practical solutions for pressing challenges in industry.