Archaeologists recently excavating the Kani Koter cemetery, located at the easternmost fringe of the one-time Assyrian Empire, have recently made thrilling discoveries. Together, these finds illuminate striking patterns of Iron Age personal adornment. The team, led by Silvia Amicone, discovered a unique formula for kohl while analyzing samples from this ancient burial site. The results expose a whitewashed veneer masking the toxic and often deadly beauty choices of the hub’s well-heeled elites. They further support this with the material culture of the 9th-7th centuries BCE.
This remarkable discovery offers new insight into the ways ancient civilizations enhanced their appearance with cosmetics. It further highlights their creative use of locally available materials, such as natural graphite and manganese oxide, extracted from the mineral-rich Zagros Mountains. The kohl formula found at Kani Koter is quite different from the standard lead-based formula prevalent across the Ancient Near East. This discovery underscores a fascinating trend towards specially designed cosmetics in that part of the world.
Rich History of Kani Koter
The Kani Koter cemetery is notable for its early elite burials, which include rich grave goods that underscore the status of those interred there. Dr. Shelir Amelirad from Heidelberg University points out that “the graves include early elite burials with rich grave goods.” This distinctly political aspect of the cemetery provides important lessons. It deepens our understanding of social hierarchies and cultural practices in this region.
Amicone explains that Kani Koter serves as a crucial point of reference for understanding the cultural life of elites situated between Assyria and Iran. “This discovery adds new details to our knowledge of personal adornment and appearance in the ancient world,” Amicone states. “In particular, we learn more about the cultural life of the elites in the area between Assyria and Iran.”
The things unearthed at Kani Koter demonstrate unique aspects of Assyrian style. This thematic link anchors the site in the broader cultural and artistic currents of its time. In doing so, the relevance of this connection comes into sharper focus, expanding our understanding of how cultures interacted along the fringes of empires.
Innovative Cosmetic Practices
The recent find at Kani Koter reveals a still more precious treasure: a lost kohl recipe. Large quantities of this cosmetic were used throughout antiquity to sharpen the appearance of eye makeup. Amicone explains, “What we discovered showed us a totally different kohl formula. This formula is exceptional because it’s lead and organic ingredient free. These ingredients were common in other similar formulations from that time period.
Instead, the molecular analysis shows that it was graphite that was used in the recipe of the kohl. Amicone elaborated, “Graphite was used here, which adheres well to the skin and may have given it a strikingly shimmering metallic appearance.” Discoveries like these inspire wonder about the ingenuity and imagination of peoples of the past who creatively transformed materials in their environment for uses like cosmetics.
Even with these advancements in understanding, Amicone warns that researchers are not yet in possession of the complete story. “We cannot say today whether such ingredients were deliberately omitted or whether they decomposed over time,” she noted.
Modern Techniques Unfolding Ancient Mysteries
It is the application of strong, 21st-century scientific inquiries that has been key in solving these ancient mysteries. The research team employed advanced techniques to analyze the remnants from the Kani Koter cemetery, contributing significantly to the field of archaeology. Professor Dr. Dr. h.c. (Dōshisha) Karla Pollmann remarked, “By using modern scientific methods, our researchers are constantly adding new building blocks to our knowledge of the cultural development of mankind.”
Her findings from Kani Koter improve our understanding of cosmetic practices in the Ancient Near East. Along with those mundane yet compelling tours, the Council provides a more fantastic glimpse into the material culture that once flourished alongside its edges. Archaeologists from UC Berkeley and beyond are currently researching this groundbreaking site. From this incredible epoch they hope to learn further lessons that will deepen our understanding of personal ornamentation and social interaction from this amazing time.